Wave of the day at Alexandra Headland. Photo Patrick Woods / Sunshine Coast Daily.
Wave of the day at Alexandra Headland. Photo Patrick Woods / Sunshine Coast Daily.

Swells are still building for surfers

AS PROMISED in last week's forecast, there's been no shortage of wind, waves and rain along much of the east coast.

The Sunshine Coast has had plenty - very strong, sustained SE winds have made most beaches wild and messy.

A few spots have actually had good moments but only for the most experienced surfers.

There is every chance that these conditions will continue for another week.

We have a high potential for a cyclone up north soon.

Most models have this system abusing the northern and central regions of Queensland, then bearing away to the SE.

However, it will still be close enough to affect our surf and wind. Expect dangerous conditions to persist for days.

I'll say it here and now in order to not repeat in each region's forecast: experienced surfers only! Watch the rips, and the sweeps will be radical.

Further, watch the Bureau Of Meteorology's cyclone forecast for positions daily. Go to: http://www.bom.gov.au/qld/forecasts/cyclone.shtml.



Saturday: Persistent SE winds have yielded solid, unruly surf over 2m along all of the Sunshine Coast beaches. If you're experienced, go to the points where it will be crowded and around 1.5m-plus. Early winds may have SW in them but they'll still be in the 15-20 knot range all day, tending SE by the afternoon. Showers and cloudy conditions are to be expected.

Surfers on the Gold Coast will have 2m of poor surf on the open beaches. Highly experienced surfers might find a spot or two early, as winds will likely be SW until midmorning. Wind strength will be over 20 knots and that's a lot of wind. Afternoon winds will be more SE and the points will be the go at 2m or more. Clouds and showers are expected.

Sunday: As the expected cyclone moves down, the winds will tend more south all day, getting up to 20 knots with gusts stronger. Forget the beaches and head for the protected points and corners where it will be 2m-plus and cleaner. Crowds will be nuts so be careful of humans and clean-up sets. Showers and scudding clouds will be on/off all day.

On the Gold Coast, 2m-plus swells will be ugly and dangerous on the beaches. Point surf will be 2m with larger sets. Again, crowds are almost as much a worry as the surf size so be careful around those humans. An overnight south change will have lifted the winds up to 40 knots in places - that's 74 km/h. Be prepared for some serious winds. Some showers and clouds will accompany these high winds. The top temp will be 28C.



Saturday: The Byron area will have solid 1.5m-plus swell on the beaches but it will be badly wind-affected and poor. Head to the points where clean 1.25 to 1.5m surf will be far better. The SE winds will get up to 20 knots and that's going to last all day. If you're experienced, then it should be a good day for you. The odd shower will mar an otherwise sunny day and the temperature will hit 26C.

In Coffs, S-SE winds of 15 knots will ease some in the afternoon and tend more E/SE.

The surf will be 1m or so along the beaches but protected corners will be better. It's going to be a sunny day, so find a safe wave and enjoy.

Sunday: A southerly change will have come up the coast during the night and winds will be 25-30 knots-plus due to the southerlies in Byron Shire. Absolutely forget the beaches and expect the points to be hard work at 2m-plus with sets. A thunderstorm is possible, probably in the arvo, so be watchful for that.

Coffs got the change earlier and the surf will be on the up. Waves to 1.5m, maybe more, will be very southerly. Protected corners only. Winds will be 20-25 knots and rain showers and cloudy conditions will accompany the wind. The high temperature will be 24C.

Next week is when the show will really be on. Tuesday and Wednesday should be well over 3m in many places.

Enjoy the view from land … unless you have a jet ski and a lot of experience.


Disclaimer: This forecast is prepared the previous Thursday in order to satisfy newspaper production requirements. As conditions may change, it is always recommended that you take a good look before ever entering a surf zone.

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